This will serve as a short little request post, regarding my current 3 favorite sunscreens. As you all know by know, I take sun-protection quite seriously (post about sun and the skin), and so spend a lot of time and … Continue reading
I’ve been either unable to blog due to lack of internet on a recent trip to Kent, which also gave me a nasty cold (over now thank God) or busy with dermatology practice – since finishing my obligatory peds. practice, … Continue reading
When teapigs (teapigs website) decided to send me a sample of their new Matcha green tea, I was overjoyed! I love tea, especially green, and I love teapigs which I have intentionally sought out on my London stays (Mr.ROK can … Continue reading
I dare say, my most devoted follower is no other than my own Mr. ROK, no surprise there perhaps, but I’m quite sure its not only because of his affiliation to me that he supports ROKderm.com. You see, he, like many other men of this day and age, has started to cultivate an interest in personal care and grooming, a trend that’s been on the rise among modern men the world over for a while now.
Coming from Norway this trend (as many other trends) have reached my country a little later than other places, culturally there’s somewhat of a manly-man syndrome going around here as well, so beauty + Norwegian-men = not so much, and so I tried fighting it for a while, rolling my eyes as he asked me “what that eye cream was for”, but I’ve come to realize I love him well dressed and put together, and a fresh looking face is a natural part of that, so who am I to deny him any of it, just because he’s male? I do draw a line at lemon-ice-tea-scented body lotions though (cough).
1.Thickness: Men’s skin is thicker than women’s skin, the major cause being the male androgen; Testosterone. Stimulation of which results in dermal and epidermal thickening as well as facial hair growth. A man’s skin is about 25% thicker than that of a woman’s. A man’s skin also thins gradually with age, whereas the thickness of a woman’s skin remains constant until about the age of fifty. The thickness is an important point to consider in regards to product delivery.
2.Collagen density: Researchers believe that the higher collagen density accounts for why women appear to age faster than men of the same age. When considering intrinsic (genetically-programmed) aging of the skin, it has been said that women are about 15 years older than men of the same age. Of course, the role of daylight exposure in skin aging, combined with the fact that men do not use sunscreen as often as women, can add years to a man’s skin and cancel out the benefit of slower intrinsic aging. (Dermalinstitute.com)
3.Texture: The skin texture on a man is rougher, and the Stratum Corneum (uppermost layer) is thicker. There is also a difference in the composition of sebum and its production. After puberty, sebum production is greater in males than in females, which is attributed to androgen secretions and accounts for why men have longer lasting acne.
4.Hydration: Male skin appears to be better hydrated than women’s, which is fortunate, as men are less likely to apply a hydrating moisturizer to their body or face. Perhaps excess sweating and production of Lactic Acid, a known natural humectant for the skin, is responsible for the level of tissue hydration.
5.Oil: Men’s skin is oiler than women’s skin due to the production of testosterone. As testosterone levels decrease over time, the difference in oil production between men and women lessens, as men naturally transition to drier/mature skin in the late 40’s and early 50’s. Since men produce more oil, they will have larger pores and more prone to blackheads than women.
How to best care for men’s skin:
The rules to follow when caring for a woman’s skin- cleanse, moisturize and protect also apply for men. But because of the thickness, the oil production, and the act of shaving, a few considerations have to be made regarding what products to include and which ingredients to have a look out for.
Cleanse: Because of the rougher texture and the increased thickness of men’s skin, exfoliation is absolute key in male grooming. Look for cleansers containing chemical exfoliants such as AHA’s and BHA’s (salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc). Exfoliation also prep skin for shaving. The following are my recommendations based on ingredients, customer reviews and awards.
1. Dermalogica Daily Clean Scrub 120ml/4oz: Contains salicylic acid, great for acne prone skin, large pores and dull skin alike, contains beads to add some mechanical exfoliation in addition to the salicylic acid. Mr. ROK is very happy with this scrub, and I’ve used it a couple of times myself as a weekly treatment, it’s a great product! You get it from Strawberrynet for $33 with free delivery.
2.Alpha-H Micro cleanse wash with 12% glycolic acid : This one contains a great percentage of glycolic acid, a potent chemical exfoliant, as well as anti-aging agent. £24.50 from lookfantastic. (psst! Also great for us ladies, so get your man this, and use a couple of times a week for a secret exfoliation session)
3.Lab Series for men multiactive face wash: Formulated for dryer skin-types while at the same time targeting enlarged pores and skin dullness, and combating the effects of pollution. £17 from lookfantastic: Lab Series Skincare For men multiaction face wash
4.The clarisonic skin-cleansing tool (read my rewiev here) is also a great addition to men’s skincare. It aids in deep cleansing and has shown to decrease acne, pore size as well as wrinkles! Men want all of that too, no? Clarisonic Classic Sonic Skin cleansing System £155 in a manly shade of grey from lookfantastic.
Shave: Shaving is both a blessing and a curse for you guys, as it works as a form of mechanical exfoliation, stimulating rejuvenation and preventing aging to some extent, but it is also a cause of increased skin sensitivity and breakouts among men. Shaving is best done on prepped skin (look above) and in the shower where the steam works to open pores, and removes the oil coating the hairs. Get dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz shaving tips here. Also opting for a shaving-gel, or oil instead of the more common foams together with the old-fashioned hand-held blade ensures a closer shave, and prevents irritation.
1.Natio for men smooth shaving gel : £7.20 from lookfantastic infused with 100% pure essential oils.
2. Dermalogica Close Shave Oil 30ml/1oz: £ 27.50 from strawberrynet
3.King of Shaves Alphagel shave gel-cooling menthol: King of Shaves Alphagel Shave gel- cooling menthol £4.29
If you have sensitive skin following shaving, try the Weleda Shave series, including the Weleda men After Shave balm £11.15 from lookfantastic, containing skin calming ingredients such as chamomile and mhyrr, and works to moisturize the skin as well.
Tone: To close pores, and prepare the skin for the nest step, try:
1.Ole Henriksen Pick me Up face mist : £21 from lookfantastic. Contains vitamin C, known to brighten skin and fruit acids to exfoliate and increase cell renewal, as well as blueberry, blackberry and peach extracts that have an enzymatic action and astringent benefits.
2. Weleda men smooth shave toner £11.15, if you have sensitive skin.
3. Anthony Logistics for men astringent toner pads : great for those of you with oilier and acne prone skin types, or if you suffer from blackheads and enlarged pores.
Moisturize and protect AM: Men skin needs the same skin saving ingredients as women’s skin does, and sunscreen is again key for having young-looking and healthy skin. This is especially important for men working outdoors!
1.Lab series skincare for men daily moisture defense lotion spf 15 : £27 from lookfantastic, also claims to protect against city pollution. Good for normal to dry skin types.
2.Alpha-H Ultra protector spf 30+ daily moisturizer : This is my favorite one here, with an SPF 30 it provides broad-spectrum protection against UV radiation, and is a great option for you over 30 or if you’re experiencing signs of premature aging.
3.Clarins men super moisture balm : This one won the lookmantastic award for 2012, and has number of raving reviews. Good for dry and dehydrated skin. Contains no SPF though, so that has to be added separately, try Murad oil free Sunblock spf 30 (also a lookmantastic winner).
Moisturize PM: Again, retinols and glycolic products are great for acne prone and aging skin types, if you have dry skin the above mentioned Clarins moisture balm is a good option, or you could try Alpha-H Balancing Moisturizer with 10% glycolic acid which regulates oil production and increases skin elasticity if thats part of your skin concern.
I hope your happy Mr. ROK! It’s been a long time coming this post, but better late than never! And I hope all you male ROKers out there found this at least a little helpful in regards to how to best take care of your skin.
Now, I’m going to get ready for my week long date starting tonight. Mr. ROK is soon on his way to me!
Have a lovely day!
What a long name for a tinted moisturizer! I almost fell asleep writing that, zzzz.. It`s also rather self-indulgent if you ask me, using the words `miracle`, `skin perfector` and `all in one` in the same everlasting name for what is, and let`s face it just a tinted moisturizer.
Or, is it? To be honest I didn’t even know what a BB cream was, until I now googled it. Apparently it stands for Blemish Balm, or Blemish Base. Originally formulated in Germany by dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek in the 1950s the cream was initially used to protect skin after laser procedures and surgery, while also providing light coverage. BB creams come in a variety of different formulations and qualities mainly perceived as being anti-inflammatory and having a soothing effect. Due to its “multi-tasking” all-in-one properties — moisturizer, primer, foundation, and sunblock — the cream became a hit in Asia where it still has the most popularity, and has recently made an entrance into the western world of cosmetics. It seems beauty now a days is all about looking like you just woke up gorgeous; skin glowing, eyes bright, not letting anyone know that you actually spent 5 hours in front of a mirror getting that “all natural look”.. There’s a constant search for that one product that`ll give you the fake-makeupfree-glow your looking for, and the BB cream claims to be just the thing for that.
This is the first BB cream I`ve tested, and I`ve come to realize there`s been a lot of talk about it in the beauty-blogosphere for a while, and I kind of get why.
The Garnier BB cream contains SPF 15, a number of emollients (skin softeners) ascorbil- glucoside- a form of vitamin C, and sodium-hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid- a water binding molecule in the skin which results in a plumping effect).
I bought mine in the springtime, and started using it now in the summer as a substitute for foundation when I wanted an even skin tone and light coverage. I also used it when I had my thesis defense, and you can have a look at what my skin looked like for that HERE. I have used mineral makeup in the past for that light cover feeling, which I`ve been happy with so far, but for summer this BB cream is performing better in giving me that “glow” I`m after.
The cream is thick and is easily pressed out from the tube. It sort of “melts” into your skin, to leave a nice moisturized, and tanned looking face behind. It adapts to your skin tone, so I use it on areas where I want the most coverage first, and then spread it out to the other parts of my face after. It`s very moisturizing and might be too rich for people with oilier skin types, but will work great on dry, mixed and normal skin.I`m very happy with the moisturizing aspect of this product, as it gets the job done on top of my sunscreen as well as giving me an even radiant face with a dewy finish. I comes in two types, light and medium, I`m happy with mine in medium.
Summed up, the positives are:
1. Moisturizes well
2. Covers lightly- good for us wanting a “see-through” finish
3. Well pigmented, gives a sunkissed look
4. Blends easily
5. Has SPF 15
6. Contains Vitamin C and a hyaluronic-acid derivative
7. Gives a dewy skin result
8. Paraben free
9. It`s inexpensive. £7.24 from Amazon: Garnier Nutri Miracle Skin Perfector Medium
The negatives are:
1. Contains ONLY SPF 15, which in my book is too low a number for your daily UV- shield, so you would still need to apply a sunscreen first. (And there goes the “all in one” part of its name)
2. Contains few antioxidants, vitamin C being the only one. I like products with a number of antioxidants in them, and although vitamin C is a great one, I would still have to use a serum first, in order to give my skin some added protection.
3. Somewhat oily- and leaves skin dewy (which I love!), but it might give too much of a shine to those of you with oily skin.
4. Light coverage- again, great for me, but not so great for those of you seeking more coverage with perhaps a matte finish.
All in all its a great multipurpose makeup product for summer, and can easily be used as a substitute for foundation.It has tickled my curiosity in regards to what other BB creams are out there, and I wonder how they will compare. But for now I`m sticking to my Garnier BB bottle, and I`m confident I`ll re-buy it at some point, as it performs so well and is more than worth the little money I spent on it.
Has anyone tried this cream? Or do you have any other similar products to recommend? I would love to hear about them!
After this week’s mega post on the bittersweet truth about cake and the cutis, some of you expressed your concern in regards to turning your back on cake and other sweets. I completely understand that, heck! I’ll never let my … Continue reading
Daya, my friend and ROKer asked: “If you where to only recommend 5 products. What would they be? “
I quite like this question! And I’ll try summing this up sweet and short for you Daya dearest:
1: Retinol night cream. I have explained the importance of incorporating a retinol product suitable for your skin type, in my post about Retinol. It’s a major antiager, if not THE major antiager, and early usage of this has been scientifically proven to prevent 3 of the main causes of skin aging, and has also been associated to skin rejuvenation. I recommend starting at 0.5% if you’re new to retinol, and I like Skin Ceuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream 30ml/1oz. Its important when choosing a retinol product to consider the packaging, as air and light will damage the retinol and decrease its shelf life. Skinceutical use an air tight, light tight metal pump container. Another good one is Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex ES 28.3g/1oz, I use the 1.10%, but they have
Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex 28.3g/1oz at a lower concentration for new retinol users.
2.Glycolic- acid containing night or day cream. Its up to you if you want to use glycolic -acid as part of your day or nighttime regiment, as I know different companies produce both. I recommend using it at night though (when your not using your retinol product), because glycolic acid has been associated with sun- sensitivity. If you do want to use it as a day cream I highly recommend Sesderma’s aglycolic range, they have two creams in the range, both containing 12% glycolic, and both having SPF’s of 15 and 20, respectively. Sesderma Acglicolic Classic Cleamoisturizing Gel
As long as your cream contains over 10% glycolic you’ll be sure to experience an effect, anything under 10 is not worth buying. I use my Reviva Labs, 10% Glycolic Acid Cream, the nights that I don’t use my retinol,as the glycolic will inhibit the retinol to work properly.
3. A topical antioxidant serum. Antioxidants, as I have spoken about earlier this week, have been associated with skin rejuvenation and protection when applied both topically to the skin directly and through your food. They have also been shown to aid the protective properties of sunscreens, by boosting the skin’s own defence mechanisms against UV radiation. I have used John Masters Organics vitamin C antiaging face serum and Caudalie Vinexpert Firming Serum , and I like them both because of their gel like consistency and fast absorption. There is one more that I would recommend you to buy based on the ingredient list, and thats the ARCONA Booster Defense Serum, Repair/Protect AM 1.17 oz (35 ml) ,
but I haven’t had the chance to try this one out myself yet as I’m still using my Caudalie. But I will definitely buy this after! I’ve been drooling over it for a while now, packed with antioxidants that one (and organic, double win!)
4. SUNSCREEN: It’s never too late to start with this one. And even if you’re blessed with low levels of radiation depending on where you live in this world, a sunscreen of at least 30 (this is my personal opinion, because I’m quite the SPF fanatic) should be part of your daily routine. As I mentioned in the sun and the skin, a physical filter sunscreen offers the best protection against both UVA and UVB, and my favourite right now is SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 50
If you find yourself needing more hydration than the sunscreen gives, you can add a moisturizer on top 20 minutes after application of the sunscreen, such as Eucerin Aquaporin Active Protective Moisturising Cream SPF 15+UVA
5. An Eye cream: The fifth and last product I would recommend, is an eye cream targeted to your specific under- eye problem; be it under eye circles, under-eye bags, or non of the above. The skin under the eyes is the first to show wrinkles as it is thinner by nature, so early care should be taken concerning this area. I have problems with dark circles my self, and my two favorites are Sesderma K-Vit Anti-Dark Circles,
and Dermalogica total eye care, spf 15 with SPF 15. I’ll use the Sesderma during nights, and the Dermalogica cream during the AM, as it contains light diffusing particles. If you suffer from loss of elasticity I would recommend Dermalogica AGE smart Age reversal eye complex, based on the ingredients. It contains retinol and vitamin K, targeting under -eye-circles as well.
In addition to these I recommend buying a moisturizer to use in-between the nights you use your acids. I use Eucerin Aquaporin Active Rich Hydrating Cream
for this purpose.
I could go on to recommend facial treatment masks, but that would be outside the scope of this post. (must.not.write.more.)
I hope you’re happy with my answer dearest Daya, and that you’ll find my product recommendations useful.
Best of luck!
“And I say, it’s alright.”
Aaaand I’m back with a post on the Sun! Only this time I’ll be focusing on the positive effects! (Can I get an Amen?!)
I know the sun’s reputation is getting increasingly worse, and I’ve been adding fuel to that fire with my latest 2 posts on the Sun and the Skin, I know. The truth is, the sun isn’t all bad. I’m not going to back off on the use of sunscreen or anything, I’ll stay fairly firm on that, but I don’t believe in extremes of anything in life, including UV avoidance, (and with that sentence, I made the world wide dermatological community, collectively gasp for air).
So here comes a ray of light in your SPF prison, a beacon of hope to your life in the shade, a flash of inspiration through your tinted lenses, a.. (all right, I’ll stop now).
I shall sum up the benefits, as I see them
1. Sunlight gives you Vitamin D. (This is a long one, bear with me)
The sun, or UVB radiation to be precise, is responsible for conversion of pre-vitamin D in the skin, into active vitamin D3. Adequate sun exposure is important for maintenance of our vitamin D levels, this is especially important in at-risk groups such as those who are elderly, who avoid the sun for medical reasons, or those who have dark skin.
A 2005 position statement from the Cancer Council Australia is the first by a national cancer council to recognize the importance of balance in recommendations about sun exposure — i.e. to avoid an increased risk of skin cancer, but to have sufficient UVR exposure to maintain adequate vitamin D levels.
The role of vitamin D to our overall health is complex. Vitamin D exerts positive effects at a number of locations in our body, and deficiency is related to everything from Rickets (a disease characterized by bone deformities and fractures), psychological disease, immunological disease, and asthma to cancer! There is growing evidence that vitamin D exerts protective effects against cancer. UVB radiation, which is required for vitamin D production in the skin, was found to be inversely associated with cancer incidence and mortality. Circulating vitamin D levels, were also associated with improved survival in colorectal and lung cancer patients, and has been shown protective in as much as 17 different cancer types.
In the skin, Vitamin D replenishes hydration and boosts elasticity, helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles, enhances the skin’s radiance, corrects acne scars, and helps correct sun damage and dark spots. These effects are mostly seen when serums of the vitamin is applied to skin directly.
2. It may help in certain skin diseases: Photo therapy, or UV light therapy is used in a number of dermatological clinics for treatment of diseases such as psoriasis (a condition where the skin sheds its cells too quickly and develops itchy, scaly patches), vitiligo (lack of pigment), and in severe cases of body acne. It has also shown to have antibacterial effects, and has been associated with therapeutic effect in cases of topical tuberculosis.
3. It makes you happy! I’ll put an appropriately here. Much of this effect is due to increased levels of vitamin D following sunlight exposure, but in recent research it has been pointed out that Serotonin – our happy hormone, as well as Melatonin – a hormone involved in the control of proper sleeping patterns, dreaming, and has also been attributed to keeping aging processes at bay, are secreted in higher amounts after sunlight exposure. Last summer I took part in a dermatology conference, and I remember one of the speakers recommending time in the sun, especially after 3 o clock, as that is when the infrared radiation is the strongest and the UVB the weakest, and although you wont get as much vitamin D production happening at this time, infrared radiation he said, would make us feel good and happy.
4. It may keep you young. Vitamin D again, has been found to regulate a number of genes in our body, some of which are associated to aging better. Vitamin D has this effect on our bones, our skin and on our hair where the effect is aiding skin to guard against invasion by microorganisms and it elicits hair growth and cycling to shield against the age-related damages from UV irradiation.
So there you are! (And you’re welcome!) A number a positive effects have been shown to be associated to sunlight, but this doesn’t mean you now suddenly wont look old after a life of unprotected sun worship, we just need to know how much sun exposure is enough to get the beneficial effects without the danger of also getting the bad ones. The recommendations for exposure time to levels of vitamin D production are:
For pale skin, the exposure time in the summer noonday sun in the southern United States is about 4-10 minutes a day; for dark skin, such as for African Americans, the corresponding time is 60- 80 minutes. The length of time varies with geographical location, skin pigmentation, percent body fat, and age. The best time of day for vitamin D production is near solar noon, when the ratio of UVB to UVA is highest. Typically, vitamin D3 can be produced from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. during the spring, summer, and fall. In Norway, where I’m from, the recommended time frame is around 30 min, if you have a darker skin tone then 40-50 minutes should be efficient.
My dad the pharmacist, takes vitamin D3 daily, and has been pushing those little white pills on me for a while now. I’ve obediently taken them with my breakfeast juice when at home, and then more or less forgotten about them when back in my city of study. I shall now make sure to eat them daily. Gosh, I really do think too little emphasis has been made by the medical community concerning vitamin D, and I’m glad research is pointing to a change in that regard.
Remember though to eat activated vitamin D3 supplements, not D2 or anything else that is not D3, as those will not have the same effect on your body, and have even been associated with negative effects!
You can get your vitamin D for $12.49 here,
Vitamin D3 5000 IU (5000IU, 100 capsules) - , and it ships worldwide -
PoHealth is also hosting a web offer right now ending the 22 of July, where you get 20% off all vitamin purchases worth $75 20% Off $75 Vitamin Orders at ProHealth.com. Expires 7/22/2012
Vitamin D Deficiency as a Strong Predictor of Asthma in Children
Received: October 20, 2010
Accepted after revision: December 29, 2010 Published online: October 6, 2011
Abdulbari Benera, c Mohammad S. Ehlayelb Meri K. Tulicd Qutayba Hamide
The nuclear vitamin D receptor controls the expression of genes encoding factors which feed the “Fountain of Youth” to mediate healthful aging
Mark R. Haussler,a,* Carol A. Haussler,a G. Kerr Whitfield,a Jui-Cheng Hsieh,a Paul D. Thompson,a Thomas K. Barthel,a Leonid Bartik,a Jan B. Egan,b Yifei Wu,a Jana L. Kubicek,a Christine L. Lowmiller,a Eric W. Moffet,a Ryan E. Forster,a and Peter W. Jurutkab
Published online 2010 March 20. doi: 10.1016/j.jsbmb.2010.03.019
The benefits and risks of ultraviolet (UV) tanning and its alternatives: the role of prudent sun exposure
Dermatol Clin. 2009 April; 27(2): 149–vi.
Epidemiology of Vitamin D Insufficiency and Cancer Mortality
- STEFAN PILZ,
- ANDREAS TOMASCHITZ,
- BARBARA OBERMAYER-PIETSCH,
- HARALD DOBNIG and
- THOMAS R. PIEBER
Anticancer Research September 2009 vol. 29 no. 9 3699-3704
Is the current public health message on UV exposure correct?
Robyn M LucasI,1; Mike H RepacholiII; Anthony J McMichaelI
Bull World Health Organ vol.84 no.6 Genebra June 2006
ANTICANCER RESEARCH 26: 2723-2728 (2006)
UV Radiation and Cancer Prevention: What is the Evidence?
R. KRAUSE1, B. MATULLA-NOLTE1, M. ESSERS1, A. BROWN1 and W. HOPFENMÜLLER2
Impact of UVA exposure on psychological parameters and circulating serotonin and melatonin
Thilo Gambichler*, Armin Bader, Mirjana Vojvodic, Falk G Bechara, Kirsten Sauermann, Peter Altmeyer and Klaus Hoffman
BMC Dermatology 2002, 2:6 doi:10.1186/1471-5945-2-6
Benefits and Requirements of Vitamin D for Optimal Health: A Review
William B. Grant, PhD, and Michael F. Holick, PhD, MD
After my post on the skin and the sun, “Cookie Monster” asked:
When i go running i use a sunscreen called ‘Riemann P20′. Its great because all you do is shake it before use, its almost like a liquid/oil/fluid of some sort, and dries quickly and i don’t seem to ‘sweat it off’. Is this a product you would recommend? A friend of mine mine swears by P20 and tells me her children have never been sunburned, but only if they wait about half an hour or an hour before they go out in the sun. She claims they only need to put it on once a day (so she won’t have to obsess about using sun screen on her kids every 30 min at the beach). What is your opinion about this?
Only negative thing about this sunscreen is that it doesn’t smell too good. It smells a little gasoline-like or like nail polish remover. Can that be good for the skin?”
First of all “Cookie Monster”, thank you so much for bringing up this concern! I hadn’t heard of this sunscreen before you asked me about it, and now I’m very happy you did. It was quite an educational adventure doing this assessment.
The active ingredient of Riemann P20 is called PABA (Para-aminobenzoic acid). It occurs naturally in the body as a B complex vitamin otherwise know as vitamin Bx. It can also be found in eggs, meat and cereals and it is minimally toxic.
In sunscreens PABA acts as a dye that absorbs UVB light energy and converts it into heat as a function of its benzene ring (hence the gasoline smell It does this with 95% efficacy according to the manufacturer, given that you apply the sunscreen a whole 90 minutes prior to sun exposure (jeez, that’s a long time!).
I’ve summarized my findings of Riemann P20 into ‘yay’ and ‘nay’ categories for simplicity.
- Protects against UVB rays with high efficacy.
- PABA’s have been used to reduce skin lesions associated with dermatitis (eczema)
- Have been used in mending skin discoloration in Vitiligo (disease in which person lacks skin pigment)
- It protects against UVB radiation ONLY! This stops you from burning, while letting you tan, but the cumulative effect of unhindered UVA radiation can be severely damaging as it has been shown to not only be responsible in large part for the aging process of photo aging, but its role in skin cancer development is also becoming more and more evident.
- Also, only effective if applied 90 minutes before exposure. Outrageous! Who has time to wait 90 minutes from application before leaving the house? Or is it only me that end up with 15 min to go before I have to be somewhere? (don’t answer that if yes)
- According to ‘Clinical Dermatology’ PABA can lead to skin abnormalities including discoloration to cancer (gasp!)
- PABA contributes to the release of oxygenated free radicals, which are linked, to increased skin pigmentation and aging.
- Like all chemicals, PABA might induce allergic reactions. According to a recent article PABA was recognized as both a topical (effect from applying it on skin) photo sensitizer but also a systemic (when ingested, inhaled etc) one. Topically applied, PABA was introduced as one of the first chemical sunscreen agents in the 1920s, gaining wide usage after World War II. In the course of time, however, PABA became one of the most common causative substances of photo allergic contact dermatitis (sun induced skin allergy) due to sunscreens. Increasing awareness of its photo sensitization properties led to a switch to PABA-free sunscreens during the eighties after a 1989 FDA report stated that PABA esters damage DNA, thus increasing risk of skin cancer.
- Alcohol Denat is one of the ingredients and is a known irritant.
- Also contains Hydroxypropyl Cellulose , a comedogenig agent (meaning it can block your pores and give you pimples)
Phew! That was a mighty long nay list!
To answer your question plainly dearest “Cookie Monster”, I wouldn’t recommend Riemann P20 based on the evidence I found researching it, there are other sunscreens on the market containing both UVB and UVA protective agents that are fast absorbing and sweat proof for your running sessions.
My recommendation for your runs is the La Roche Posay ANTHELIOS XL SPF 50+ FLUIDE EXTREME For Face (this sunscreen has been voted the best in the world!) I haven’t tried it myself yet as I like to stick to physical sunscreens more, but I have a friend who loves this.
If you would like to continue using your Riemann P20 I recommend you to use another sunscreen on top, perhaps one with a physical filter so to ensure your not getting any of those aging UVA rays while your keeping the rest of your body in shape.
My favorite at the moment is Skinceuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50
But as this is at Mr.ROK’s appartment in London I wasn’t able to include it in my current suncare products post.
I hope you got an answer you’re happy with dearest ROKer! Even if it means thinking of switching sunscreen.
The Mechanisms of UV Mutagenesis
Hironobu IKEHATA* and Tetsuya ONO
J. Radiat. Res., 52, 115–125 (2011)
Uro-dermatological problems of a construction worker: paraaminobenzoic acid as a systemic photosensitizer
European Journal of Dermatology. Volume 20, Number 2, 217-9, March-April 2010, Clinical report
DOI : 10.1684/ejd.2010.0876
Author(s) : Johanna Stoevesandt, Natalie Kürzinger, Eva Bettina Bröcker, Axel Trautmann , Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Allergology, University of Würzburg, Josef-Schneider-Straße 2, D – 97080 Würzburg, Germany.
Morphological and Biochemical Changes During Aging and Photoaging of the Skin of C57BL/6J Mice
2010 The Japanese Society of Toxicologic Pathology – Ayako Sayama, 1 Tomomi Soushin, 1 Taro Okada, 1 Kunio Doi, 1 and Hiroyuki Nakayama 1
Effect of UVA irradiation on proliferation and NO/iNOS system of human skin firbroblast
CHEN Minglian, ZHANG Buiying, YI Mei, CHEN Xiao, LI Ji, XIE Hongfu, CHEN Xiang
J Cent South Univ (Med Sci) 2009, 34 (8)
“Orlando Sentinel” Cancer experts fear report will cause sunscreen scare;
Alex Beasly; March 1989
A reader asked me to research a sunscreen, after the sun and the skin post, and as I was rummaging through articles and information pages, it struck me that explaining a few basic facts about sunscreens might be a good idea to do before I start posting anything else about sunscreens.
Ultraviolet A rays account for up to 95 percent of the UV radiation reaching the Earth’s surface. Although they are less intense than UVB, UVA rays are 30 to 50 times more prevalent. They are present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass, which signifies the importance of wearing UVA blocking sunscreen also when your inside your house.
UVA, which penetrates the skin more deeply than UVB, has long been known to play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling (photoaging), and it is also responsible for the tan you get after a day at the beach. Studies over the past two decades also show that UVA damages skin cells called keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur. UVA contributes to and may even initiate the development of skin cancers.
Ultraviolet B rays are the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin’s more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging. Its intensity varies by season, location, and time of day. UVB rays do not significantly penetrate glass.
Sun Protection Factor (SPF):
The amount of light that induces redness in sunscreen-protected skin, divided by the amount of light that induces redness in unprotected skin is the SPF. It is mainly a measure of UVB protection and ranges from 1 to 45 or above.
A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 filters 92% of the UVB. Put another way, a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will delay the onset of a sunburn in a person who would otherwise burn in 10 minutes to burn in 150 minutes. The SPF 15 sunscreen allows a person to stay out in the sun 15 times longer.
When it comes to how to apply sunscreen, most dermatologists recommend applying your sunscreen before anything else goes onto your skin in case it interferes with the chemical absorbance of the sunscreen. That goes for both chemical and physical sunscreens because even though physical sunscreens form a layer on top of the skin, pre-applied products might interfere with the layering of the sunscreen, and might even dilute the sunscreen.
Personally I tend to apply my chemical sunscreen first before I apply a moisturizer or physical sunscreen on top, as recommended.
If I’m using my physical sunscreen on the other hand, I like to put a pump of fast absorbing antioxidant containing serum underneath such as John Masters Organics – Vitamin C Anti-Aging Face Serum, or Caudalie Vinexpert Firming Serum 1 oz , as antioxidants are said to boost the effect of the sunscreen.
Another important point is that all sunscreens take a minimum of 20 min to work properly; so one should always make time for some absorbance after application.