Monthly Archives: June 2012

My favorite glycolic products, and why I use them

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– A tad bit more blurry then expected this pic.. Links to products can be found at the end of the post.

After my post on my nighttime treatments, I had a question from a ROKer, lets call her “I”, asking weather acids really do the skin any good? A great question I thought, as I understand that “acid” doesn’t exactly scream ‘Aaahhh-beauty treatment’, more like ‘ouch!- blisters and peeling skin’.. I answered this question in part in my post on Retinoic acid, but why I use Glycolic acid has yet to be revealed.

Glycolic acid is a fruit acid, part of the alpha-hydroxy-acid family, and it executes a number of beneficial effects on our skin.

Glycolic acid is mostly know as an exfoliant, an agent that breaks away the dead skin cells at the top most layer of the skin. It does this my breaking down bonds between the cells, letting them shed away easily. Dead skin cells, contribute to clogged pores and dull skin, and can be a causative factor in development of breakouts and decreased skin-regeneration.

Skin exfoliation makes skin look softer and smoother. Long term use of glycolic acid skin care products has been shown to help diminish fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots, as well as pregnancy related pigmentation spots (melasma). From an antiaging perspective glycolic acid has been shown to increase collagen production and fibroblast activity in skin, resulting in increased skin thickness and improvement of firmness and feel of the skin.

It also helps smooth out uneven facial tone and can even reduce the appearance of surgical scars, acne scars, and other blemishes. Used on a regular basis, glycolic acid has also proven helpful in the treatment of acne.

Many dermatologists offer powerful in- office glycolic peels using 20%-70% glycolic acid concentrations. These are done once to a couple of times a month as an antiaging treatment to stimulate rejuvenation, or as a treatment for acne, acne scars or problems of hyper- pigmentation and uneven skin tone. I have never had one myself, but I have been using glycolic acid containing at home treatments for more than 4 years, with great results.

What I like most about the glycolic products I have used, is the instant ‘glow’ you get after just one application of the product. This is attributed to its great exfolitative effect, as it lets new skin shine instantly, giving your skin a very polished look.

At home treatment concentrations vary from 10-30%, and as with Retinoic acid you’re urged to build up tolerance as you get accustomed to it. I’ve been going steady with a concentration of 10-15% for a while, which I find suits me well, and I haven’t felt the need to amp it up yet.

As with any acid treatment, proper use of daytime SPF is highly recommended (mandatory), as it makes the skin sun-sensitive.

My products from left to right:

1. Alpha-H liquid gold : People rave about this one, I like it a lot, but I prefer my glycolic- product in cream format.This product is good if your new to the game, and since its fluid, it works well with a moisturizer added on top for increased hydration.

2. Mario Badescu Glycolic acid toner: This is a great toner for combination/oily skin types! I have more of a dehydrated skin type, so I use it after my Mario Badesco foaming cleanser 2-3 times a week, or before my moisturizer when I’m heading out and want my skin to have that little extra ‘oomph’ we all crave so much.

3.Cliniderm Dual Action 2 in 1 peeling and mask. This is a nice exfoliator. It contains small round beads for some physical exfoliation in addition to the effect of the glycolic acid. I use this when I feel like I need to rub away a little, in between my Mario Badescu foaming cleanser sessions. The great thing about this one is that it can also be used as a moisturizing mask, making it a perfect travel product! Cliniderm is sold in Norwegian pharmacies, and I think also in Swedish ones.

4. Mario Badescu Glycolic cleanser Chemical exfoliation cleanser. It does leave my skin a little dry after use, so I generally use it 2 times a week for that great exfolitative effect, and follow with my glycolic moisturizer after. I also use it on my body, I mean if its good for the skin on the face, why not get some great exfoliation going on the rest of the body as well?

5. 10% Glycolic acid cream from Reviva-labs. Really really great product. Absolutely love this. My skin looks radiant every morning after I use this. This also contains vitamin A, and E which aid in skin rejuvenation.

Reviva Labs, 10% Glycolic Acid Cream

I’ll also add a 6th product which is not pictured, but that I have tried the cream version of. This is the gel version, great for summer, and great for people who need hydration, but fear the heaviness a cream might bring with it. It contains 12% glycolic acid as well as alovera, and other active anti-aging and hydrating ingredients:

Sesderma Acglicolic Classic Cleamoisturizing Gel
Use your glycolic products on nights when you’re not using your retinol product, glycolic acid will hinder the effect of your retinol, so please do apply them on separate nights!

Sources:

The therapeutic value of glycolic acid peels in dermatology
Grover C, Reddu BS
Dept. of Dermatology, Maulana Azad Medical College & Hospitals, New Delhi – 110 002

Year : 2003  |  Volume : 69  |  Issue : 2  |  Page : 148-150

“Here comes the sun, little darling”

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“And I say, it’s alright.”

Aaaand I’m back with a post on the Sun! Only this time I’ll be focusing on the positive effects! (Can I get an Amen?!)

I know the sun’s reputation is getting increasingly worse, and I’ve been adding fuel to that fire with my latest 2 posts on the Sun and the Skin, I know. The truth is, the sun isn’t all bad. I’m not going to back off on the use of sunscreen or anything, I’ll stay fairly firm on that, but I don’t believe in extremes of anything in life, including UV avoidance, (and with that sentence, I made the world wide dermatological community, collectively gasp for air).

So here comes a ray of light in your SPF prison, a beacon of hope to your life in the shade, a flash of inspiration through your tinted lenses, a.. (all right, I’ll stop now).

I shall sum up the benefits, as I see them

1.  Sunlight gives you Vitamin D.  (This is a long one, bear with me)

The sun, or UVB radiation to be precise, is responsible for conversion of pre-vitamin D in the skin, into active vitamin D3. Adequate sun exposure is important for maintenance of our vitamin D levels, this is especially important in at-risk groups such as those who are elderly, who avoid the sun for medical reasons, or those who have dark skin.

A 2005 position statement from the Cancer Council Australia is the first by a national cancer council to recognize the importance of balance in recommendations about sun exposure — i.e. to avoid an increased risk of skin cancer, but to have sufficient UVR exposure to maintain adequate vitamin D levels.

The role of vitamin D to our overall health is complex. Vitamin D exerts positive effects at a number of locations in our body, and deficiency is related to everything from Rickets (a disease characterized by bone deformities and fractures), psychological disease, immunological disease, and asthma to cancer! There is growing evidence that vitamin D exerts protective effects against cancer. UVB radiation, which is required for vitamin D production in the skin, was found to be inversely associated with cancer incidence and mortality. Circulating vitamin D levels, were also associated with improved survival in colorectal and lung cancer patients, and has been shown protective in as much as 17 different cancer types.

In the skin, Vitamin D replenishes hydration and boosts elasticity, helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles, enhances the skin’s radiance, corrects acne scars, and helps correct sun damage and dark spots. These effects are mostly seen when serums of the vitamin is applied to skin directly.

2.  It may help in certain skin diseases:  Photo therapy, or UV light therapy is used in a number of dermatological clinics for treatment of diseases such as psoriasis (a condition where the skin sheds its cells too quickly and develops itchy, scaly patches), vitiligo (lack of pigment), and in severe cases of body acne. It has also shown to have antibacterial effects, and has been associated with therapeutic effect in cases of topical tuberculosis.

3.  It makes you happy! I’ll put an appropriately :) here. Much of this effect is due to increased levels of vitamin D following sunlight exposure, but in recent research it has been pointed out that Serotonin – our happy hormone, as well as Melatonin – a hormone involved in the control of proper sleeping patterns, dreaming, and has also been attributed to keeping aging processes at bay, are secreted in higher amounts after sunlight exposure. Last summer I took part in a dermatology conference, and I remember one of the speakers recommending time in the sun, especially after 3 o clock, as that is when the infrared radiation is the strongest and the UVB the weakest, and although you wont get as much vitamin D production happening at this time, infrared radiation he said, would make us feel good and happy.

4.    It may keep you young.  Vitamin D again, has been found to regulate a number of genes in our body, some of which are associated to aging better. Vitamin D has this effect on our bones, our skin and on our hair where the effect is aiding skin to guard against invasion by microorganisms and it elicits hair growth and cycling to shield against the age-related damages from UV irradiation.

So there you are! (And you’re welcome!) A number a positive effects have been shown to be associated to sunlight, but this doesn’t mean you now suddenly wont look old after a life of unprotected sun worship, we just need to know how much sun exposure is enough to get the beneficial effects without the danger of also getting the bad ones. The recommendations for exposure time to levels of vitamin D production are:

For pale skin, the exposure time in the summer noonday sun in the southern United States is about 4-10 minutes a day; for dark skin, such as for African Americans, the corresponding time is 60- 80 minutes. The length of time varies with geographical location, skin pigmentation, percent body fat, and age. The best time of day for vitamin D production is near solar noon, when the ratio of UVB to UVA is highest. Typically, vitamin D3 can be produced from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. during the spring, summer, and fall. In Norway, where I’m from, the recommended time frame is around 30 min, if you have a darker skin tone then 40-50 minutes should be efficient.

My dad the pharmacist, takes vitamin D3 daily, and has been pushing those little white pills on me for a while now. I’ve obediently taken them with my breakfeast juice when at home, and then more or less forgotten about them when back in my city of study. I shall now make sure to eat them daily. Gosh, I really do think too little emphasis has been made by the medical community concerning vitamin D, and I’m glad research is pointing to a change in that regard.

Remember though to eat activated vitamin D3 supplements, not D2 or anything else that is not D3, as those will not have the same effect on your body, and have even been associated with negative effects!

You can get your vitamin D for $12.49 here,
Vitamin D3 5000 IU (5000IU, 100 capsules)   Vitamin D3 5000 IU (5000IU, 100 capsules)- , and it ships worldwide -

PoHealth is also hosting a web offer right now ending the 22 of July, where you get 20% off all vitamin purchases worth $75 20% Off $75 Vitamin Orders at ProHealth.com. Expires 7/22/2012

 

Sources:

Vitamin D Deficiency as a Strong Predictor of Asthma in Children

Received: October 20, 2010
Accepted after revision: December 29, 2010 Published online: October 6, 2011

Abdulbari Benera, c Mohammad S. Ehlayelb Meri K. Tulicd Qutayba Hamide

The nuclear vitamin D receptor controls the expression of genes encoding factors which feed the “Fountain of Youth” to mediate healthful aging

Mark R. Haussler,a,* Carol A. Haussler,a G. Kerr Whitfield,a Jui-Cheng Hsieh,a Paul D. Thompson,a Thomas K. Barthel,a Leonid Bartik,a Jan B. Egan,b Yifei Wu,a Jana L. Kubicek,a Christine L. Lowmiller,a Eric W. Moffet,a Ryan E. Forster,a and Peter W. Jurutkab

Published online 2010 March 20. doi:  10.1016/j.jsbmb.2010.03.019

PMCID: PMC2906618

NIHMSID: NIHMS194636

The benefits and risks of ultraviolet (UV) tanning and its alternatives: the role of prudent sun exposure

Dermatol Clin. 2009 April; 27(2): 149–vi.

doi:  10.1016/j.det.2008.11.008

PMCID: PMC2692214

Epidemiology of Vitamin D Insufficiency and Cancer Mortality

  1. STEFAN PILZ,
  2. ANDREAS TOMASCHITZ,
  3. BARBARA OBERMAYER-PIETSCH,
  4. HARALD DOBNIG and
  5. THOMAS R. PIEBER

Anticancer Research September 2009 vol. 29 no. 9 3699-3704

Is the current public health message on UV exposure correct?

Robyn M LucasI,1; Mike H RepacholiII; Anthony J McMichaelI

Bull World Health Organ vol.84 no.6 Genebra June 2006

ANTICANCER RESEARCH 26: 2723-2728 (2006)

Review

UV Radiation and Cancer Prevention: What is the Evidence?

R. KRAUSE1, B. MATULLA-NOLTE1, M. ESSERS1, A. BROWN1 and W. HOPFENMÜLLER2

Impact of UVA exposure on psychological parameters and circulating serotonin and melatonin

Thilo Gambichler*, Armin Bader, Mirjana Vojvodic, Falk G Bechara, Kirsten Sauermann, Peter Altmeyer and Klaus Hoffman

BMC Dermatology 2002, 2:6 doi:10.1186/1471-5945-2-6

Benefits and Requirements of Vitamin D for Optimal Health: A Review

William B. Grant, PhD, and Michael F. Holick, PhD, MD

Thesis Defense Done!

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Image

Here I am with my two colleagues for 4 years from the Immunology Department at my medical school in Debrecen, Hungary. Happy, relieved, and looking mighty tanned!

I’ll post more info. about the nature of my research at a later date, as it’s still somewhat ‘hush-hush’, but I will tell you its about melanoma, and includes the investigation of a future treatment modality! Yup, super relevant, and very interesting. I’ve been so lucky to have my great tutor Attila by my side in thick and thin, and I will truly miss going to the institute for lab work and tea-dates.

It’s been a fun ride! And now, all that remains to wrap it all up, is a publication..

#Happy ROKderm#

Thank You

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ImageOne week has passed since ROKderm began, and I’d like to take a moment to thank all my ROKers for following, liking, commenting, sharing, tweeting and generally supporting this ongoing project. I truly appreciate every little “click” you make, and every little word you write, and please do continue.

You are wonderful.

ROK on. Love,

Rolah

Have you met my friend, Retinol?

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If not, let me introduce you:

On the quest for youth you will meet foes and allies alike, and Retinol is perhaps the greatest ally you’ll ever make. At the risk of sounding slightly like an addict, I was first presented to Retinol 2 years and 3 bottles ago. At first it was the 0.5% from Sesderma, the relationship evolved into skinceutical’s 1.0% Retinol, and we are now best friends at 1.10%, through Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex ES 28.3g/1oz.

Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex ES 28.3g/1oz Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex ES 28.3g/1ozAn ultra-powerful anti-aging treatment Formulated with three forms of vitamin A highly concentrated with retinoids Developed with patented Microsponge® delivery system to offer gradual release over time to reduce irritation Accelerates collagen production to eliminate appearance of fine lines & wrinkles Promotes cell regeneration & cellular turnover to boost skin’s tone & texture Minimizes appearance of age spots Unveils firmer more flexible & younger looking skin

Retinol is a less potent variation of Retinoid, which you can only get per prescription from your dermatologist. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that unclog pores, boost collagen to reduce fine lines, and speed cell turnover to even out discoloration and smooth the skin—sometimes in as little as four weeks. The first retinoid—tretinoin—was FDA approved (under the brand name Retin-A) almost 40 years ago as a prescription acne treatment.

Dermatologists soon noticed that patients on Retin-A experienced not just clearer but softer, brighter, less-lined skin. And since then the rest is history. Retinol, which is found in a number of over the counter preparations, are slowly converted to retinoic acid (the active ingredient in prescription creams) and so  results will take aprox. 12 weeks before they become evident.

Retinol is a major antiager, and being me, early investment in this powerful keep- all –things- age-related-at bay-weapon, was a no brainer. I have tried 3 different creams from 3 different companies and the one I’m using now Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex is by far my favorite.

First things first! Lets understand what all the fuss is about.

Aging is characterized by 9 different attributes:

1.Roughness

2.Development of skin lesions, such as actinic keratosis

3.Slacking, due to loss of eleastic fibers

4.Skin thinning, due to thinning of the epidermis (the uppermost layer of the skin)

5.Skin Fragility, due to flattening of the area where the epidermis and the dermis (lower layer of skin) meet.

6.Bruising, due to lack of support around blood-vessel walls

7.Age spots, or hyperpigmentation- brought about by UV radiation

8.Wrinkling- lines formed as elasticity decreases, leaving tracks of facial movement behind.

9.Hollowing of the face, due to loss of fat beneath the skin, most often seen underneath the eyes as hollows or groves may be formed there.

Simply put, Retinoids and Retinols (to a lesser degree) have been attributed to 3 of the above mentioned aspects of skin aging. They are as given by : Jacquelyn Levin, DO and Saira B. Momin, DO :

1.Hyperpigmentation. Retinoic acid is thought to reduce mottled hyperpigmentation by enhancing epidermal cell turnover. Enhancing epidermal cell turnover decreases the contact time between keratinocytes (skin cells) and melanocytes (pigment producing cells) and promotes a rapid loss of pigment.

2.Fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoic acid therapy reduces fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the capacity of the epidermis to hold water through stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG- a large water binding molecule in the skin) synthesis and by stimulating collagen synthesis through increases in transforming growth factor (TGF-beta) and procollagen.

Furthermore, it is believed that RA may also retard or prevent further dermal matrix degradation by inhibiting the enzymes that break down collagen and preventing oxidative stress, as well as an 80 percent increase in collagen I formation when photodamaged skin was treated with Retinoic acid. (Christopher Griffiths et al.)

The over the counter Retinol containing antiwrinkle effect has recently been documented in a study by REB Watson et al. , in which fibrillin-1 ( a component of  the elastic fibers of the skin) was significantly upregulated after long-term use. Also, numbers of fibroblasts and increased collagen production was observed in a recent study, following a 7day course of a topical retinol product.

3.Roughness. Retinoic acid therapy reduces skin roughness by modulating the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, hence promoting epidermal cell turnover.

The effects are believed to be mediated through binding to retinoic acid receptors (RAR) and subsequent binding of these complexes to specific genes affecting gene transcription.

– Decrease in wrinkle depth after Retinol use

In addition to its anitaging properties, retinoic acid has been shown to be effective in the treatment of acne, which was the reason for its first use on the skin. In addition to diminishing sebum (oil produced by skin) output, retinoic acid may reduce the number of open and closed comedones (black heads and white heads), which makes it a nice addition to any skin care regiment of people suffering form acne.

– Reduction of acne after Retinoid use

The adverse effects that have been reported are skin flaking, and irritation; also I would recommend staying away from vitamin A derivates while pregnant. I just know if it was me, I would rather be safe than sorry, as some studies have shown that high doses of vitamin A during pregnancy can be harmful to an unborn child. And oral retinoids, such as isotretinoin (Accutane, an acne treatment), are known to cause birth defects.

Precautions of  sunlight exposure are also recommended, as retinols may induce photosensitivity, although some dermatologists argue it is only the compound itself that is sun sensitive, hence application should be done at nighttime.

Recommended use of retinol/retinoid containing products as found on SkinMedica’s home page, are:

“If a retinol product has never been used before, begin by limiting use to twice a week, two to three days apart, gradually increasing frequency to every other night. After one to two weeks, advance to each evening or as tolerated. Mild redness, peeling and irritation are expected when using this product. Daily sun protection with SPF 20 or higher is highly recommended during use of this product. As with any skin care product, avoid getting in eyes. If contact occurs, rinse eyes thoroughly with water.”

And might I add;

- Always start with the lowest concentration possible, if your new to retinol, try
Skin Ceuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream 30ml/1oz

Skin Ceuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream 30ml/1oz Skin Ceuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream 30ml/1ozContains 0.5% pure retinol & advanced delivery technology Stimulates cell regeneration & collagen production Eliminates appearance of fine lines wrinkles & age spots Visibly reduces pore size & repair blemishes blotchiness No clogging of pores & diminishes need of extra moisturizer Leaves skin velvety smooth & youthful Ideal for more sensitive skin Not suitable for pregnat women

 -Never apply it at the same time you also have products on your skin that contain glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide .

- Always apply it to your skin at bedtime; never use it during the day.

-Always use a an SPF of 30 or above. Try
Skin Ceuticals Sport UV Defense SPF 45 90ml/3oz

(All products pictured in this post are from strawberrynet, and come with FREE WORLDWIDE DELIVERY!!!)  :)

Hope you feel enlightened and ready for your Retinol experience, dearest ROKers, it most certainly is a beauty ingredient which will make tremendous differences to our skin as time goes by.

Lots of Love,

Rolah

-Sources

 Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Siddharth Mukherjee,1 Abhijit Date,2 Vandana Patravale,3 Hans Christian Korting,4 Alexander Roeder,4 and Günther Weindl5

Dermatoendocrinol. 2011 Jul-Sep; 3(3): 136–140.

Published online 2011 July 1. doi:  10.4161/derm.3.3.15026

PMCID: PMC3219164

How Much Do We Really Know About Our Favorite Cosmeceutical Ingredients?

Jacquelyn Levin, DO and Saira B. Momin, DO

J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010 February; 3(2): 22–41.

PMCID: PMC2921764

A cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial

REB Watson, S Ogden, LF Cotterell, JJ Bowden, JY Bastrilles, SP Long,* and CEM Griffiths

Br J Dermatol. 2009 August; 161(2): 419–426.

doi:  10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09216.x

PMCID: PMC2774146

 Vitamin A Antagonizes Decreased Cell Growth and Elevated Collagen-Degrading Matrix Metalloproteinases and Stimulates Collagen Accumulation in Naturally Aged Human Skin1

James Varani, Roscoe L Warner, Mehrnaz Gharaee-Kermani, Sem H Phan, Sewon Kang*, JinHo Chung*, ZengQuan Wang*, Subhash C Datta*, Gary J Fisher* and John J Voorhees*

Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2000) 114, 480–486; doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00902.x

Regulation of keratin expression by retinoids

Hans Törmä

West J Med. 1988 December; 149(6): 766–767.

PMCID: PMC102663

Topical retinoic acid, aging, and the skin.

P M Elias

Restoration of Collagen Formation in Photodamaged Human Skin by Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid)

Christopher Griffiths, Andrew N. Russman, Gopa Majmudar, Robert S. Singer, Ted A. Hamilton, and John J. Voorhees

N Engl J Med 1993; 329:530-535August 19, 1993

 

My nighttime treatments

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This will be a super short post as I have important thesis business to take care of today, and probably all days until end of Friday. I will however do my best to post daily, in spite of being a very busy bee these upcoming days (because I now feel a responsibility to all you out there checking my blog so faithfully!) My posts might however, be shorter than what your used to seeing from me.

One ROKer requested a post on my day and nighttime product recommendations. As I mostly use the sunscreens for daytime, which I mentioned in my posts about the sun and the skin, which you can get by pressing THIS and THIS, and it will pop up in a new tab for you, I have decided to post a pic of my current nighttime treatments.

From left to right:

1. Skin Medica Tri-Retinol Complex
- contains 1.01% Retinol, which together with glycolic acid have been shown to induce skin rejuvenation. (Will be reviewing this on its own, its THAT great!)

2. Eucerin Aquaporin Active Rich Hydrating Cream
- by Eucerin – this is the Rich version, very hydrating. I use this in between the two acid treatments.

3. Caudalie Vinexpert Firming Serum
- Contains a heap of antioxidants, including reservatrol, lets just call it an antioxidant on the rise! I use it both for daytime under my sunscreen and at night under for example the Aquaporin ACTIVE. (This product will be getting its own review down the line)

4. Alpha-H Liquid Gold
- contains fruit acids, also know as alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHA’s) including glycolic acid.

5. Reviva Labs, 10% Glycolic Acid Cream
- Really great glycolig acid containing cream that also has vitamin A, and E as main ingredients. (This one deserves a review on its own as well.. I’ve got a few now to do, haven’t I)

That is all for now! If your lucky, I might have time for one more post before I hit the sack.

Stay tuned dear ROKers!

-Rolah

Focus on Almond Oil, and a review of Weleda’s Almond Soothing Facial Oil

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“Like to an Almond tree ymounted hye
On top of greene Selinis all alone
With blossoms brave bedecked daintily;
Whose tender locks do tremble every one
At every little breath that under Heaven is blown.”

-Spenser

Since prebiblical times the almond tree and its seeds have been a symbol of femininity, lust, hope, and everlasting love. It’s only natural then I guess, that the oil of its fruit carry massive beauty bringing powers.

Sweet almond oil as opposed to bitter almond oil, has a number of purposes in cosmetics. Most often it is used as an emollient (skin softener) and as a carrier medium for agents in creams.

When I first decided to give almond oil a go after reading about it’s skin-calming advantages, my choice fell on Weleda’s Almond Soothing Facial Oil. Weleda is a brand that only uses biodynamically grown ingredients through a holistic approach to farming resulting in superb quality produce. Weleda also has sentimental value to me, as this is one of the few cosmetic brands my mother buys, and I remember growing up, there would always be a tube of Weleda Rose Cream on the bathroom shelf.

The ingredients for Weleda’s almond oil for face are as follows:

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Prunus Domestica (Plum) Seed Oil, Prunus Spinosa (Blackthorn) Flower Extract.

Why I love it:

1.  It has anti-inflammatory properties: Almonds contain approximately 49% oils, of which 62% is monounsaturated oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid), 24% is linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated omega-6 essential fatty acid), and 6% is palmitic acid (a saturated fatty acid). Especially the oleic acid and the linoleic acid have been attributed to anti-inflammatory properties in cases of wound-healing and inflammatory acne.

2.  It has anti-bacterial properties: Oleic acid has been shown to upregulate antibacterial properties of the sebocytes (the oil producing cells of the skin), resulting in increased defence and regulation of the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes, which is a causative agent in the development of inflammatory acne vulgaris, which is the most common skin disease, afflicting up to 80% of individuals throughout their lives (Nordstrom et al., 1986; Chronnell et al., 2001; Bojar and Holland, 2004).

3.  It has antioxidant and antiaging properties: Almonds are a rich source of vitamins E and A “the skin saver vitamins”. Together they are responsible for both healing of skin ailments and antiaging processes. Vitamin E showed the ability to enhance fibroblast migration and proliferation in a recent study, in addition to its ability to improve skin ulcerations, it also improves the skin manifestations evident with scleroderma, morphea, hypertrophic scars, and lichen amyloidosis . Together vitamin E and A induces early differentiation markers of keratinocytes (skin cells) which translates into skin regeneration. Niacin or vitamin B3 is another important component of the antiaging abilities of  almond oil. During an eight-week, randomized, parallel-group study, sponsored by Proctor and Gamble and published in March 2010 in “The British Journal of Dermatology,” niacinamide treated subjects reported reduction of appearance of facial wrinkles. A separate study published in “Dermatologic Surgery” in 2006 showed topical niacinamide provided reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, skin yellowing and elasticity.

4.  It has protective properties against UV radiation: this is mostly due to the antioxidant effects of vitamin E, which has shown to decrease photo-aging and Niacin that have been suggested to act protectively against developing skin cancer. One study that was published in July 2010 in the “Journal of Nucleic Acids,” reported that nicotinamide (niacin) was able to protect against ultraviolet-induced skin cancer in mice. It helped prevent the progression of premalignant actinic keratoses to malignant squamous cell cancers.
As for the other ingredients, Plum kernel oil works with the almond oil, balancing and soothing sensitive skin thanks to high quantities of antioxidants and vitamins A and E. Organic blackthorn flower extract, high in skin-toning tannins and vitamin C, protects and strengthens your skin.

I use Weleda soothing facial almond oil ( £11.15 from lookfantastic- ships free!) several times a week. I love it after a day in the sun or as a post treatment after a facemask. The trick with any facial or body oil is to apply it to moist skin! (more wet than moist really).

I just pat my face once after washing with a towel, and/or spritz some Avene Thermale Spring Water Spray 300ml on my face, before I massage 3-4 drops of oil on my face until partly absorbed. It works great on its own, but can easily be topped by a moisturizer for example during the dry winter months.

I also use it as an eye-makeup remover on a moistened cotton pad, which works amazingly! If I have really sore and dry lips I rub a drop of oil on them, and voila! The soreness is gone within minutes.

As this is an oil that has helpful effects against acne, it’s a great moisturizing and skin calming agent for people with dry inflammatory acne types, a skin condition which is particularly hard to find appropriate products for.

-Sources

Effect of Dietary Conjugated Linoleic Acid  Supplementation on Early Inflammatory Responses during Cutaneous Wound Healing

Volume 2010 (2010), Article ID 342328, 8 pagesdoi:10.1155/2010/342328Research Article

Na-Young Park, Giuseppe Valacchi, and Yunsook LimDepartment of Food and Nutrition, Research Institute of Science for Human Life, Kyung Hee University, 1 Hoegi-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul 130-761,  Republic of Korea

Sebum Free Fatty Acids Enhance the Innate Immune Defense of Human Sebocytes by Upregulating β-Defensin-2 Expression

Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2010) 130, 985–994; doi:10.1038/jid.2009.384; published online 24 December 2009

Teruaki Nakatsuji1,2, Mandy C Kao1,2, Liangfang Zhang3,4, Christos C Zouboulis5, Richard L Gallo1,2 and Chun-Ming Huang1,2,4

An Innate Bactericidal Oleic Acid Effective Against Skin Infection of Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus: A Therapy Concordant with Evolutionary Medicine PublicationInfo J. Microbiol. Biotechnol.2011 ; 21(4): 391~399

Two cases of refractory discoid lupus erythematosus successfully treated with topical tocoretinate
Mika Terao, Saki Matsui, Ichiro Katayama
Dermatology Online Journal 17 (4): 15 Pharmacogn Rev. 2011 Jul-Dec; 5(10): 164–173.

doi:  10.4103/0973-7847.91114

Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation

Radava R. Korać and Kapil M. Khambholja1

PMCID: PMC3263051

The Role of Phytonutrients in Skin Health

Julie A. Evans and Elizabeth J. Johnson*

Party of three!

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I love lip color, I might not wear it everywhere all the time everyday, but I still love it with dedication! I’m especially fond of sheer colors in the form of tinted lip balms, as lipsticks are reserved for nights (of course there are exceptions) and since I’ve kind of given up on lip glosses as I always get hair stuck in them and end up dragging a blob of goo across my cheek as I try to brush my hair away, leaving a nice glistening trail on my face as proof of its journey.

I have therefore developed an appreciation for tinted lip balms, which I think leave enough moisture to make your lips look soft, but without that unfortunate mirror effect that lip glosses sometimes end up having. You also get a suggestion of color in just the right amount to make people wonder if your lips really are that shade, which is never a bad thing! They are also excellent used this time of year, when we’re all about clean skin, true colors, and natural beauty.

My 3 summer favorites are:

1.     MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner SPF 15 23.95$ on Amazon.com

This is my favorite one of them all! It contains almond oil, Shea butter, avocado extract, wheat germ oil and vitamin A and E and SPF15. This is the best tinted lip balm, if maybe not also the best lip balm I have tried. It tastes sweet as well, perfect for those late summer- night kisses. It also builds color beautifully, and I love it in Fuchsia Fix.

2.     Clinique Chubby Stick   – 21£ on Amazon.co.uk

Contains Shea butter, mango seed butter, and jojoba seed oil as well as vitamin E.  This one gives a little bit more of a glisten, but also builds color brilliantly. This is a good choice if you want a slightly glossy finish without the stickiness of a gloss. Super easy to apply as well as it comes in a pencil shape with a twist handle so there’s no need for any sharpeners! I use it in 05 chunky cherry.

3.     Korres Lip Butter - Only 6£ on Amazon.co.uk

Active ingredients are: Shea butter and Rice wax which provide lasting hydration and softness. KORRES is an all natural organic brand so for those of you out there that prefers organic ingredients, this is the choice for you. It comes in a buttery thick consistency, very nice or dry lips. I use it in ‘wild rose’.

What is your favorite summer lip product?